Nakajima Island: The Neverland

I woke up on a wonderful sunny day, ready to go to Nakajima Island. I took a train to Takahamako port and I waited for the first boat to Nakajima. After a half hour trip, I got to the island. I thought I’d start my journey from the biggest one, and then try to reach the others of the Kutsuna archipelago on the same day.

On the boat, I met a very nice woman called Mayumi, who explained to me how it would have been impossible to go to more than one island on the same day because of the big distances between them. She said that I could have visited just one for a day trip. So I decided to stay in Nakajima, which was the most impressive. She offered me a ride because her husband was waiting for her arrival in the port, with their two children. I got in the car with them and she brought me to a very nice restaurant. I ate a delicious marinated fresh fish with little tomatoes – it reminded me of Italian flavors because of the tomatoes and the marinated sauce with balsamic vinaigrette – she ordered an amazing salmon sandwich with avocado and black bread and a pizza.

After lunch, I met a very interesting lady called Hiro, who was the owner of the restaurant. She came from Hokkaido island and she spoke English well. She said: “If you want to visit the island, there’re some people in the afternoon who conduct tours there”, “Of course I want to go!” I said. Therefore, she gave me an appointment for the afternoon. In the meantime, Mayumi introduced me to the English teacher of the school, so I could speak with him since she knew very few English words. He was a shy Japanese guy, who spoke good English and tried to explain everything about his island in the best way. They showed me a little part of the island, and we stopped on the seashore to take pictures and walk on the white sand. Even though I couldn’t bathe, it was a pleasure just feeling the sea breeze and the warm sun on my skin. Mayumi gave me a delicious ice-cream, and some figs from her garden, she acted like a mom and I felt so pampered. It’s unbelievable how people could be so nice and amazing, although you have never seen them before.

At three p.m. they brought me back to the restaurant, where Miss Hiro, with other two people, was waiting for me. There was Yuki, a pretty girl, who worked for the Japanese channel NHK. She was making a report about Nakajima, and she needed someone who brought her to the island. Then, there was Yuki – yes, they have the same name, it isn’t a mistake – a young farmer from the island, who came to picked us up with his little van. He had a lot of orange plantations and he knew the region very well. We went up and down the hills, seeing amazing landscapes unlocked in front of my eyes and impressing me with the beauty of nature. The hills were covered with the orange and green tea plantations, stunning green dales filled the horizon and came down till the sea. Yuki showed us a typical farm house, a very old house full of furniture and very, very cheap to rent. I was thinking to move to the island, and start a new life as a farmer! Life is very simple there because you don’t need many material things; it’s very different from the rest of Japan, and this dazzled me. On the island, there was just a supermarket, a school, few restaurants and beautiful nature. During the trip, they tried to speak English with me and we could have a great conversation about several topics, especially about the island activities. I found out that the cost of life there is cheaper than the rest of Japan, as they grow all the raw materials, and there’s a lot of sea products and water, so they don’t need anything from the mainland. The island is completely self-contained.

Before we went back to the port, Yuki took two fishing rods and a pair of rain boots for me. He brought us to the rocks to fish in the sea. For me was the first fishing experience in the sea and I was thrilled. Yuki caught two fish, but she was excited too. He demonstrated us how to cast the line and how to wait for fishes. Yuki caught out three fishes very soon, I waited a long time, before catching three too. Obviously, we set the fishes free in the water, but we enjoyed it so much. It was a great experience.

The time passed so fast and I had to come back to Matsuyama soon. I was very lucky because Yuki – the girl – came back with me and Yuki paid the ferry for us. We stayed on the deck and, while we were talking, an amazing sunset popped up in front of us. We looked at the horizon in silence because the scenery was stunning and we were totally absorbed by it.

The island is a sort of Wonderland, where people live together in harmony and seems they are all friends. It’s a very different reality, from the cities of the mainland. I saw beautiful white beaches that soaked into the blue water of the Seto Inland Sea. It reminded me of Sicily, the wonderful Italian island, with its orange plantations, the high hills, the green landscapes and the amazing sea views.

Nakajima Island is like Neverland and I felt like Peter Pan. I think that nobody could get old there.

Kyoto and Arashiyama… The most representative pictures

Kyoto and Arashiyama, two amazing places, where traditions and nature are mixed together in perfect harmony.

Il mio viaggio, dalla Thailandia al Giappone

Quest’estate ho vissuto un’esperienza davvero unica, frequentando un corso d’inglese in Thailandia e viaggiando da sola, zaino in spalla, per il Giappone. Ho vissuto tutto intensamente e ho imparato molto dalla gente e dai magnifici luoghi che ho visitato. Ho condiviso momenti divertenti nel campus dell’International House a Chiang Mai con molte persone provenienti da tutto il mondo, che mi rimarranno per sempre nel cuore. Ho conosciuto gente splendida e generosa sull’isola di Nakajima, nello stretto del mare di Seto e ho incontrato vecchi amici a Tokyo. E’ stato un viaggio diverso dagli altri fatti in precedenza, ma che mi ha fatto guadagnare tanta stima per me stessa e mi ha fatto capire quanto belle siano le persone, gli animali e la natura!

Sono partita dall’Italia, da Milano Malpensa, con Ethiad Airways, facendo scalo ad Abu Dhabi e giungendo a Bangkok. Ho preso poi un volo di circa un’ora della Bangkok Airways diretto a Chiang Mai. Ho soggiornato per sette settimane nel campus dell’International House, in una nuovissima struttura con camere comode e spaziose e con un’ enorme piscina rigenerante nelle torbide giornate monsoniche. Finiti i miei studi, sono volata a Bangkok e ho preso una macchina a noleggio per raggiungere Prachuap Kiri Khan, una tranquilla cittadina sulla costa tailandese, a quattrocento chilometri da Bangkok. Sono rimasta per una settimana in un resort molto confortevole, in un bungalow vicino alla spiaggia con una piccola piscina e delle fiabesche altalene su un piccolo promontorio sul mare. Sono poi andata a Bangkok per concludere i miei due mesi di visto tailandese e per respirare un po’ l’aria della città affollata e trafficata, prima di ripartire per il Giappone.

Il ventiquattro agosto ho preso il taxi per andare all’aeroporto di Suvarnabumi, a un’orario improbabile, ovvero alle tre e trenta della mattina. Alle sei il volo della Delta Airlines è partito puntuale per Tokyo Narita, un viaggio abbastanza turbolento di sei ore. Atterrata a Narita sono andata immediatamente a chiedere come potevo raggiungere Kyoto in treno entro sera. Mi hanno venduto un biglietto per la stazione di Nippori, da lì ho dovuto prendere un treno della Yamanote Line, la linea circolare ferroviaria di Tokyo, e giungere alla stazione centrale di Tokyo. Ho comprato un biglietto per lo Shinkansen Nozomi, il treno veloce, che mi ha portata a Kyoto in circa due ore. Ho soggiornato presso l’Apa hotel nella zona Gion per tre giorni. Ho visitato la città di Arashiyama, raggiungibile da Kyoto prendendo un treno della Keifuku line alla stazione di Omiya, in centro Kyoto. Arashiyama è una città meravigliosa per il suo parco, gli splendidi paesaggi, la foresta di bamboo e il parco dei macachi. Kyoto è una città estremamente interessante e si possono davvero vedere tantissime cose: dai moderni portici di Nishiki Market e Teramachi street, ai favolosi templi, al quartiere di Gion, dove le Geishe e le Maiko escono verso le sei di sera per andare al lavoro e le strade dove passano vengono avvolte da un’aura misteriosa e surreale. Il fiume su cui il sole ogni sera si siede e diventa rosso e colora tutto di arancio e le colline intorno che rendono il paesaggio meraviglioso.

Da Kyoto ho preso un Nozomi diretto ad Okayama, l’unica città dalla quale si può prendere un treno diretto per raggiungere l’isola dello Shikoku. Ho soggiornato due notti all’hotel Maira molto confortevole, con bevande gratuite tutto il giorno e una piccola colazione la mattina. Ho visitato il castello e i giardini incantati di Korakuen, ho raggiunto con un treno Kurashiki, una piccola città a venti minuti di treno da Okayama. Una cittadina mercantile che conserva ancora lo stile dell’epoca Meiji, con i suoi canali che scorrono al centro, potrebbe ricordare la lontana Venezia. I salici piangenti che posano le loro foglie sull’acqua e gli edifici bianchi e neri tutti intorno. Davvero molto caratteristica e da vedere, ho respirato un’atmosfera d’altri tempi e mi sono immersa in un’ epoca antica.

Con un viaggio in treno di circa due ore e mezza da Okayama, ho raggiunto Matsuyama, la prima città dello Shikoku e anche la più grande della regione. Ho soggiornato in un altro Apa hotel, situato in una posizione davvero bella e comoda. A Matsuyama ho visitato il castello, ho assistito ad incredibili tramonti sul mare e ho visitato isole magiche. Ho preso un traghetto al porto di Takahamako per raggiungere la più vicina isola di Gogoshima, solo quindici minuti di viaggio, per visitare una delle spiagge più isolate e difficili da raggiungere. Un’isola molto bella, verde e poco popolata. Ho raggiunto l’isola di Nakajima, la più grande dell’arcipelago delle isole Kutsuna, a mezz’ora di traghetto veloce sempre dal porto di Takahamako. Mi ha regalato emozioni uniche e ho conosciuto persone meravigliose che mi hanno fatto visitare tutta la magia dell’isola. Il mare blu e le spiagge bianche si scontrano con le colline verdi, ricche di coltivazioni di arance e di tè verde. I suoi paesaggi sono da mozzare il fiato e sembra di essere in un’altra dimensione, dove il tempo non scorre mai.

L’isola più complicata da raggiungere è stata Aoyama, conosciuta come “l’isola dei gatti”. Ho dovuto prendere un treno diretto al piccolo porticciolo di Iyo Nagahama, circa un’ora di viaggio, poi un traghetto per quaranta minuti di traversata. Il viaggio è un pò complicato, soprattutto perché quando si arriva al porto non si può sapere con certezza se la barca partirà, poichè tutto dipende dalle condizioni del mare. Inoltre il traghetto fa solo due viaggi, uno la mattina e uno il primo pomeriggio, rimane sull’isola per un’ora e poi torna indietro. Per chi è appassionato di gatti ne vale la pena, quando si arriva si incontrano davvero tantissimi esemplari, che rendono particolare l’approdo del traghetto. L’isola è molto caratteristica, perché è abitata solo da cinquanta persone e più di cento gatti. Ci sono case disabitate e fatiscenti, ma nel complesso si integrano benissimo nel paesaggio.

La successiva meta è stata Kochi sulla costa dell’Oceano Pacifico, città natale del famosissimo samurai Ryoma Sakamoto e delle balene. Ho raggiunto Kochi cambiando due treni da Matsuyama, ci ho impiegato circa due ore e mezza. L’hotel nel quale ho soggiornato si chiama Green hotel, è in una posizione comodissima per chi viaggia in treno, poiché è a soli dieci minuti di camminata dalla stazione. Ho visitato la spiaggia di Katsurahama con una bellissima vista sull’Oceano; il castello, che offre uno spettacolare panorama della città, anche se l’ho visitato nei giorni in cui si è abbattuto un tifone. L’esperienza più bella e forte è stata il “whale watching”. Anche questa volta arrivare all’imbarcazione non è stato così semplice, ho dovuto prendere un autobus dalla stazione di Kochi, circa un’ora di viaggio per raggiungere il porto e imbarcarmi su una piccola barca. La crociera è durata in tutto cinque ore, perché il punto per avvistare le balene è molto distante dalla costa. E’ stata un’esperienza meravigliosa e irripetibile, vedere i delfini che saltavano in gruppo felici e liberi, essere circondati dalle balene, più grandi del triplo della barca, che pacifiche si immergevano nel loro ambiente naturale. Anche Kochi mi ha regalato emozioni e meraviglie ed è stato difficile lasciarla.

Sono partita alla volta di Tokushima, cambiando due treni da Kochi, per circa due ore totali di viaggio. L’hotel Avanti è stato il peggiore a livello di comodità della camera, ma il proprietario è un simpatico signore giapponese e la mattina hai una vera e propria colazione gratuita con: caffè, succo d’arancia, due panini dolci con il burro, un uovo sodo e ovviamente il caffè. Tokushima a prima vista mi è parsa la città più trascurata, anche se comunque molto bella. Ho raggiunto Naruto per fare una gita in giornata, prendendo un treno e un autobus per un totale di quasi due ore di viaggio. Ne è valsa la pena, però, per vedere un bellissimo spettacolo, quello dei vortici di Naruto, anche se l’orario non ha offerto lo spettacolo migliore, è comunque stato uno strano fenomeno da vedere. Sono salita con una funivia sul monte Bizan proprio dietro il mio albergo e da lì ho potuto assistere ad un panorama meraviglioso, che si estendeva fino al mare. Ho danzato l’Awa Odori con danzatori professionisti, la danza tipica della regione e della città, e ho riposato sulla riva del fiume.

Tokushima è stata l’ultima città che ho visitato nello Shikoku, perché da lì ho preso tre treni per tornare a Tokyo e rimanere una settimana. Tokyo è la mia metropoli preferita, è eclettica e moderna, ma al tempo stesso ricca di tradizione.

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Matsuyama and Gogoshima… Starting out in the Shikoku region

This summer I saw stunning sunsets and wonderful landscapes in Japan, and most were in Shikoku and its little islands. I was alone, and I often spent my time sitting down on a rock or on a beach or simply on a bench, just enjoying the view and thinking about my life.

I took a direct train from Okayama city, which has a long bridge that connects the mainland with Shikoku island. The journey took about two hours by bullet train, and I arrived in Matsuyama in the early afternoon. I walked for twenty minutes to reach the Apa hotel, and I was extremely tired because of the weight of my backpack. I really don’t know why it always grows heavier as I move about. Anyway, the hotel was very convenient and in a wonderful location. It was in front of a green park and the paths to the castle. The Apa is a famous Japanese chain of cheap hotels, and all the rooms are fully equipped with many amenities. In the common areas there are some vending machines, a Laundromat and a microwave. It has also a dedicated manga, in which the characters of the story stay at the Apa hotel. My room was on the seventh floor, so I had a wonderful river view, and I could see also the castle.

At five in the afternoon I left the hotel, and went walking through the park. When I saw one of the paths to the castle, I tried to follow it. The slope was a bit steep, but the weather wasn’t hot, and there was a pleasant breeze. I’d stopped in front of a historical building, which was the gardens of the castle, but it was closed because of the late time. I could hear classical music coming from inside, and, considering that there wasn’t anybody around, I started to dance in front of the big wooden doorway. I felt like a princess, dancing for my king… but there wasn’t any king. Then a boy ran through the path, and broke the magical atmosphere! Then another person arrived, and I realized that I wasn’t alone any more. I started to walk again, certain to reach the top of the castle. On the street I met a very strange Japanese man, who was talking with some Smurfs – some plastic miniatures representing the blue creatures from a famous cartoon – which he put on a big felled tree trunk. He really scared me, because he had been having a serious conversation with them, and I found it a very strange behaviour. I started to walk faster and pass behind him, scared he could follow me with his Smurfs. I think that it’s very funny now, I’m laughing while writing it, but in that moment it was very frightening. Anyway, I left him behind, and finally I reached the top of the hill and what I saw was amazing. The view up there was stunning, and I could see through the city till the coast. The sky turned orange and then red… It was the sundown time, a marvellous sunset. The atmosphere turned weird, and a lot of black birds were flying all around and broke into the red sky. Suddenly, everything changed and I found myself moving into a fairytale. The lovely cold wind raised my hair, and I stood on the top of the castle looking down to the sea, where it met with the sky and both turned into one. I had a lump in my throat because I was surrounded by the beauty of nature, and I was completely pervaded by emotions. Even though there were few people up there, I felt thoroughly alone, just me and myself, fighting against my demons and trying to find the answers to my life. With a dark sky I went back through the path, so I was in the wood, and I heard the real sounds of nature, as a beautiful soundtrack for my return downhill. When I entered in my room, I was quite shocked from the sensations I felt, but also reassured.

The morning after I walked through the city for a while, then in the afternoon, I decided to go to the coast and see the sea. I took a train to Takahamako port. The journey was about 40 minutes, but while the train was running it started to rain. I was a bit worried because I wanted to sit down on the beach and breathe the sea breeze. When the train stopped, I was so happy because the rain also stopped. While I was walking through the pier, the sun started to shine and I could feel the warmth of the sun’s rays all over my skin, a pleasant sensation. I climbed over a little wall on the sidewalk, and I fell from a ladder into a white and deserted beach. I went up the rocks, which formed a sort of bridge over the sea. I sat down there – me, the sun, and the wind. I live in a city, so for me it’s very strange to find deserted places where I can sit down and think. I spent about one hour there, dancing and singing, then I went back to the pier and took a little boat, and I reached one of the islands in the Seto Sea. It was the nearest one because it was already 4 p.m. I arrived at Gogoshima island after 15 minutes. It is very little, but extremely beautiful. I walked the road over the sea, searching for an isolated place to sit down. I saw a little, lonely beach under the road, but I should have come down from the top of the street. I held a rope, secured firmly to the railing, and falling down to the beach. I gripped the rope and I dropped from the rocks, even though I had some problems reaching the ground, and I scratched myself on the rocks. I did it and I felt so lucky because nobody could have known where I was, and it seemed I was abandoned on a desert island. I sat on the sand for a while, before trying to reach the top, climbing the rocks with the rope. The wall was very steep, and I found it harder than coming down. Anyway, I loved the adventure and I felt alive when I did something that few people could have done. Sometimes my friends think I’m mad, but I love the way I live, even though it’s a bit unconventional. I went back to the little port and I waited for the boat to the mainland. Another day had passed by, but it was another amazing day!

In my room I planned the boat trip for the day after. I wanted to go to Nakajima island and visited the other islands nearby.

From Thailand to Japan… the beginning of my travel all alone

I left Thailand after spending six days in Prachuap Kiri Khan, which is a quiet city on the coast – about 400 km from Bangkok – and three in Bangkok. I felt the difference from Chiang Mai, but I enjoyed the peaceful life by the sea and I could appreciate the busy life in Bangkok.

I went to Japan in the last week of August, and started my real travel all alone. I reached Kyoto directly from Narita airport, after a six hour flight from Bangkok. I was so excited to start my new adventures, even though I was quite scared too. I’ve always known that taking trains is hard, especially in the big train stations like Tokyo or Kyoto, but I did it.

I was in Kyoto for three wonderful days. I know that it’s a short time, but I’d already been there twice, so I’d almost seen everything all you need to see. Last time I was been there, I wore like a Maiko and I enjoyed becoming another creature just for one day. I didn’t feel myself when they started to whiten my face and made me up. I chose a Kimono and an Obi belt, and then did a photo shoot in the garden. It was an amazing experience and stunning sensation.

Anyway, I found a city that I’d never been to, called Arashiyama. The city is famous for its bamboo forest, and I really wanted to see it, because I could imagine the amazing atmosphere I could feel there. I went to Arashiyama by taking a Keifuku local train from Omiya station, which cost only 210 yen (about 1,80 €). I started to walk around the little city and in the park, finding the famous bamboo path. It was extremely hot and I needed to sit down often, just drinking and taking a breath. When I reached the path I felt as though I’d turned up in an ancient and imaginary world, where everything was colored by the intensive green of the bamboo, and the sun on the top shyly sinking. The atmosphere was unreal, even though there were a lot of people walking through. I closed my eyes and imagined being the hero of the “House of flying daggers”, beautiful and brave. When I stopped my imagination, I followed the path. At the end I visited the Tenryuji temple with its beautiful garden, where I walked around the trees and the little river, and everything was perfect. I reached the station, because I wanted to go back to Kyoto, and I was very tired and overheated. I’d eaten a green tea ice-cream and I’d regenerated myself, so I decided to go to the monkey park. I wanted to see the macaques in their natural habitat, even though I knew it would be hard to walk into the mountain in 40° heat. I started my climb with a fan, which was given with the ticket, and a bottle of water. At the beginning I thought I couldn’t do it, but then the desire to be in contact with the amazing animals gave me the strength to go on. When I reached the top of the hill, I started to see a lot of big macaques, who ran around me. It was so fun, even though it was a bit dangerous, because the monkeys were extremely spiteful and you had to pay attention to all your stuff. There were a lot of guardians to protect people, but the animals were free to move where they wanted. I saw a big macaque diving into the water, a lot of baby monkeys suckled by their moms and most of them groomed each others. I stood in front of all of them and I was completely fascinated by nature. The view up there was amazing – you could see all the city of Arashiyama till Kyoto. I took a lot of pictures, before going back to the station. The descent was easier, also because I was so satisfied and happy with what I’d just seen.

The last day in Kyoto I spent time in a cat cafe and in an owl cafe. I love being together with animals. Of course, the owl cafe isn’t the best place where you can see the birds, because owls are night animals and they have to live in the forest, free to fly and hunt. I know that, but I really like owls and I really wanted to see them, even though I don’t agree with these cafes. I visited one regular cat cafe and one Bengal cat cafe, in which there were only Bengal cats. These are an amazing breed of cats. Their fur is just like a leopard’s and they are beautiful. I cuddled one for half an hour… I love cats and I would like to have remained there longer.

I’d walked though Nishiki Market, which is a street full of delicious food shops, and Teramachi street. I saw some real Geishas walking on the Gion area and I spent time on the river to see the fabulous sunset. Kyoto is an amazing city – so traditional, but also so modern. Spending time there, even though only for few days, is regenerative, because you are in a city, but you are surrounded by nature and historical places.

I left Kyoto to reach Okayama, before going to the island of Shikoku. I’d arrived in the afternoon and I’d immediately gone to see the caste. It is small, but the architecture is stunning, and it has some parts of the roof in gold, but with a totally black exterior, earning it the nickname of Crow Castle. I then visited the Korakuen gardens, thinking to see the same boring gardens… Unexpectedly, when I entered from the main entrance I stood in another world, in the wonderland world. I felt exactly like Alice when she fell in the hole, following the white rabbit, and she went out in another reality. The view in front of me was breath-taking, a huge green meadow with many rounded white lights all over, a lot of streams and beautiful trees. I dreamed of following my personal white rabbit, talking with the Cheshire Cat, drinking tea with the Mad Hatter and running away from the Queen of Hearts… And yes,I lost my mind for few minutes. I went back to the hotel, where I found myself again. The hotel Maira is a very nice and cheap one, and they offer some sweet bread every morning till 9.00 a.m., all day free hot and cold drinks and a free massage chair in the hall. The room is basic, but clean and bright.

The day after I’d been to Kurashiki city, which was recommended by my Japanese friend. I spent twenty minutes by train from Okayama station to reach the city, and the most interesting place to visit is the Bikan historical area, which is the old merchant quarter. It contains many fine examples of 17th century wooden warehouses painted white with traditional black tiles, along a canal framed with weeping willows and filled with koi. The area has no electric poles in order to make it more closely resemble the look of the Meiji period. It seems to live in another century, and there’s a magical atmosphere all around. I walked through the shopping street, where I saw some interesting dress shops and a cos player’s photo shooting. I went back to the hotel, spending my last night in Okayama.

Okayama was my last city on the mainland. After that, I took a direct train to Matsuyama, where my travel around the island of Shikoku started.